It’s a catch in the throat, a sudden inhale. Occasionally, a smile creeps from one side of the mouth to the other. Sometimes, there’s a tear. A silence. Or a gentle nod of the head.
It’s a moment Victoria Jeweller Idar Bergseth has seen many times over 45 years.
In the world of jewellery, he says, it’s that moment both goldsmith and client wait for: the “yes.”
But what does custom-made jewellery signify, as opposed to items readily available in stores or online?
The answer is generally found in the value derived from making something unique, a one-of-a-kind gift—for a loved one or yourself—that will last a lifetime and be passed down to future generations.
“What you are giving this person is so much more than jewellery; it is an amulet,” says Bergseth.
“A custom-made piece adds hidden value to any creation. Whether it costs $300, $3,000, or $30,000, sentimentality is the true value of a custom-made piece of jewellery. The cost of materials doesn’t matter as much as the story behind it.”
Bergseth underscores his point by telling how one client asked to have an engagement ring made from gold he had panned from the Sooke River over four years, while another wanted a modern item that incorporated a stone bequeathed from her great grandmother.
Bergseth and his team of goldsmiths are often asked to repair or transform jewellery that has little monetary value, but is priceless in meaning to clients.
In one special case, a mother brought in a set of charred metal rods and asked Bergseth if he could create something unique out of them. The woman explained the rods were medical grade and had been inserted into her disabled son’s spine when he was a child. When her son passed away at age 40, she had him cremated and the burnt rods were among his remains. For her, the rods symbolized her son’s strength and spirit. She wanted to make something special out of them for her and her family to remember him by.
Bergseth took the rods and brainstormed a few options, eventually creating something for each surviving family member to wear, including a bracelet, a set of earrings and a tiepin.
“It was very emotional when we presented the pieces to the family,” says Bergseth.
“There were a lot of tears. Each person had a little part of him now. It was a wonderful thing to be able to do.”
Custom jewellery is often about making something special for other people, but not always. Bergseth says more and more individuals are designing jewellery for themselves, no longer content to wait on a partner to bestow symbols of affection.
If you want to purchase a custom piece for a loved one, Lance Glenn, design consultant at Idar Jewellers, encourages people to resist the urge to surprise their partner.
“I’ll often ask guys, ‘Have you ever surprised her before? And how did that go? Does she actually wear that cat sweater, or is it still hanging on your side of the closet?’”
Despite the glory moment for the gift giver, Glenn says it’s important to remember that a custom-made piece of jewellery should be a reflection of the person who will be wearing it, not the person who gave it.
Better still, custom-made jewellery can be a collaborative process for couples, and no less special than the surprise moment
Bergseth chuckles as he recalls how one customer managed to accomplish both:
“We had a couple come into the store one day, and she tried on a ring. The man asked to see the price tag—and asked if she liked it—and when she said yes, he got down on one knee right there and asked if she would marry him!”
Still, for those committed to designing a piece of jewellery as a surprise, there are a few things to keep in mind:
• Most importantly, any item must be both beautiful and functional. Consider what the recipient does all day, and if the item you have in mind will be practical. Otherwise, it may end up in a jewellery box.
• Size matters, too. Rings presented as a surprise often need to be brought back for resizing.
• Then there is the matter of personal style and taste. What are your partner’s favourite colours? What is their skin tone? And what kind of jewelry do they already have, and wear most often?
• Finally, consider dollars and sense. How important is the life event you wish to commemorate, and what does your budget permit? The answer to both questions will steer you towards what is appropriate and affordable.
However, with a custom piece of jewellery, when the time comes to bestow the item, the story behind it will likely be much more valuable than any price tag could ever reveal.
